In ancient times it was the heart of the Carthaginian civilisation, which for a time – perhaps 300 years from 500 BCE to 200 BCE – was the most powerful in the western Mediterranean. However, the Romans conquered it in 149 BCE and kept control until the fifth century CE. Round about the year 700 it came under Arab Muslim rule, ultimately becoming part of the Ottoman Empire, although under its Beys (governors) it was virtually independent.

The government declared itself bankrupt in 1869 and an international financial commission took over the running of the Tunisian economy. In 1883 the French invaded from Algeria and established a protectorate, encouraging European settlement for several decades afterwards; by 1945 there were 144,000 French colonists.

In 1934 a nationalist party, Neo Destour, was founded, but immediately lost its leader Habib Bourguiba to imprisonment in France. During the Second World War occupation of France by the Nazis Bourguiba was transferred to Rome, where the Axis powers tried to induce him to set Neo Destour against the Allies. He was released in 1943 and returned to Tunisia, where he continued to advocate independence from France, in a political and at times violent campaign which ultimately succeeded in 1956. Bourguiba became President in 1957 and remained in power until impeached by his own Prime Minister, Ben Ali, in 1987 on health grounds. Ben Ali was himself overthrown by a popular revolt (the “Jasmine Revolution”) in January 2011.

Travel tips

Although Tunisia is a Muslim state there is no formal dress code, unless you decide to visit a mosque, where only men can enter and they must have their arms, legs and head covered. The women wear just about anything (and sometimes not a lot!) so don’t be put off for that reason.

The postal service is quite slow but things will arrive eventually.

The dialling code for Tunis is 00 216 1. The telephone network is OK, but calls to the UK can be expensive. If you want to use e-mail you have a choice of two providers but both experience technical difficulties at times. The telephone sockets are completely different to those in the UK; here they are more like a credit card fixture.

The voltage is the same as the UK (230V 50Hz), with two-pin round (European-type) sockets.

There are a lot of banks where you can exchange money, the local currency is the dinar and the exchange rate is roughly 2 dinars to the pound. Credit cards are widely accepted if accompanied with a form of identification (i.e. passport).

Be prepared for the weather here. In summer the temperature can reach 40°C, and the winters are cool and damp. We experience frequent storms and high winds, which can lead to power failures.

Accommodation

Hotel Abou Nawas – there are two of this name. One is in the centre of Tunis and the other is in the “suburbs”.

Abou Nawas, Gammarth. Telephone number: 741 444

Abou Nawas, Tunis. Telephone number: 350 355

Hotel Residence, Gammarth. Telephone number: 910 101

I would say that the approximate price for these hotels is £50 per night (depending on the time of year).

Food

There are a wide variety of restaurants in and around Tunis. Here are some favourites:

Au Bon Vieux Temps: One is situated in Sidi Bou Said and the other in La Marsa. Excellent for seafood with cosy ambience. Prices vary, as does selection of fish, but a three-course meal with local wine would cost in the region of £20 per person.

Le Boeuf Sur Le Toil: this is a very lively restaurant. The emphasis here is on a good time rather than good food, however the food is OK. A night here will cost £15 for the food (a set menu) plus your drinks (a bottle of wine costs roughly £10). There is a small dance floor and a mixture of local and international (loud) music.

Li Bai: this is located in the Hotel Residence and is in the style of Singaporean food. It is quite expensive but the food is good and the staff are friendly. A meal with wine would cost around £30 per person.

L’Olivier: again in the Hotel Residence but this time Italian. The food is excellent with a choice of Italian or local dishes, but is quite expensive compared to local restaurants. A three-course meal with wine would cost in the region of £30 per person.

Shopping

When it comes to shopping, it is very different to the UK. Until recently you had to go to a variety of shops to complete your weekly shopping, but last week [April 2001] a new Carrefour supermarket opened, and consequently has been very busy up until now.

There is the Medina where you haggle for locally made products, which can be fun. As the importation taxes are so high here, there isn’t a great choice but you can buy pretty much anything (except vegetarian foodstuff) for inflated prices.

Entertainment

There are no libraries for English speakers, but there is a book club run by expats, which meets monthly. You can contact the Embassy for a number or myself on 745 998.

The larger hotels offer the usual sports, such as tennis and swimming.

There is a golf club at La Soukra, which is frequented by lots of expats. The International Club also meets here on Friday evening and organises quiz nights and other such things.

For local travel you have Hammamet, Sousse or Monastier. These are all situated to the south of Tunis between 1 and 2 hours by car. You can take a “luage”, which is rented, shared car or minibus which will take you door to door, however be warned they will not leave until full so your journey could take some time. Plus the drivers are renowned for being reckless!!

Further afield you can visit El Jem which is the largest, complete amphitheatre outside of Rome or even Tatouine, which is where the Star Wars saga was filmed along with The English Patient, among others.

I’ve mentioned the International Club; there is also a Caledonian Society and Hash House Harriers. These are all attended by pretty much the same people and you can contact me for information on any of these.

[Contact details correct as of original date of publication in April 2001]