Although India had gained independence from the United Kingdom over two years earlier, on 15 August 1947, it still had no permanent constitution of its own. Its constitutional law was based on the Government of India Act 1935 as subsequently amended, under which its head of state was King-Emperor George VI and its Governor-General was the last Viceroy under British rule, Earl Mountbatten.

Accordingly a committee under Dr Bhimrao Ramji Ambedkar was appointed to draft a constitution. The document they produced was remarkable in its scope, creating a federal governmental set-up with social reform fixed firmly into the mandate of both Union and state governments and – in principle at least – giving the Indian people the right to participate directly in their own government at all levels.

It was also significant in marking the first time that a country remained in the British Commonwealth after rejecting the British Sovereign as its head of state. Previously, renunciation of Dominion status had meant departure from the Commonwealth, as had happened with Ireland under the Republic of Ireland Act 1948. The London Declaration of 1949, under which India agreed to accept the British Sovereign as a “symbol of the free association of its independent member nations and as such the Head of the Commonwealth”, formed the basis for a much looser – and ultimately more sustainable – association.

26 January 1950 was chosen as the date of entry into force of the new Constitution – fittingly, the anniversary of the day in 1930 on which the Indian National Congress resolved to fight for Purna Swaraj, or complete self-rule.

The high point of the celebrations is undoubtedly the Republic Day Parade, held by the Indian Armed Forces in Delhi along Rajpath and on to the Red Fort. The salute is taken by the President of India together with the Chief Guest, who is always the Head of State or Head of Government of another nation.

Beautiful climate still, although it has changed immensely due to all the concrete, tarmac and high-rise buildings. I’ve seen it myself since 1995. Many natives say it has changed greatly in the last 20 or 30 years.

It is also not so laid back as it was even ten years ago. But there is a lot of vitality (especially during the seasons when the wind blows away the pollution, composed of smog and lots of pollen and dust; that appears to be less and less often, though). Lots of people get sick quite often with respiratory problems.

I am amazed at the revolution among the young people, especially the young women. I was quite used to people’s conservative and elegant manners, but now in the new coffee house chains I often see 20-something women in spaghetti tops with bare midriffs, tattoos and low-rise jeans, smoking cigarettes and putting their arm around some young man. Quite a change, to say the least!

Maybe it is a good thing if they can at least interact with a few males before marrying one. Anyway, most young people haven’t rebelled as much as the ones I just described; they still look like they did 10 years ago, maybe a bit more affluent.

I don’t really know what goes on privately, but I suppose the biggest change is Internet matchmaking and dating (especially the former). It seems more efficient than the newspaper ads, but a young, male Indian friend of mine seemed to have struck out pretty badly in his own, basically arranged, marriage.

His wife looks like a good catch, but they are very unhappy together. I really suspect he takes way too much for granted about women – like they should automatically fall in love with their newlywed husband. I’ve seen similar attitudes before among Indian men. I think Khushwant Singh, the 80-something Sikh journalist, is right when he says young people should get to know someone before marrying her/him.

The “information technology” companies here (such as the one I work for) are growing so fast now that they can’t find engineers with the right qualifications. I’m working with my boss on a way to improve the situation using testing and training.

Bangalore offers tremendous possibilities for business and it gets better all the time. The main drawbacks of the place are the high pollen count, the dust, the vehicular air pollution, and the poor electricity, water, sanitation, and road infrastructure.

Some of these problems will be addressed, but probably not before the present government falls. The previous government did great things for Karnataka and Bangalore, but the people did not appreciate that by bringing wealth to the state capital, the whole state is benefited.

All in all, life is good for an expat here. I hope this gives you a flavour of things.

Eicher p97, B5. North of Lodi Road, west of the India International Centre and south-west of Khan Market. Very popular, especially at weekends and first thing in the morning. One of the few places in Delhi where you can get in free to an ancient monument (tombs of two of the Lodi kings, and one or two other old buildings too). Lots of squirrels. Watch out for the many cricketers and their flying tennis balls, which unfortunately spoil the atmosphere quite a bit.

Nehru Park

Eicher p96, F6. In Chanakyapuri, bounded by Niti Marg, Panchsheel Marg, Satya Marg and Vinay Marg. Quite an extensive park – big enough to have a temple in the middle of it, anyway, and long enough to make you feel quite tired by the time you’ve walked its whole length! More naturally landscaped than Lodi, and with a few hillocks in it, to make you feel less as if you’re in the city (though with fairly busy roads on each side, that doesn’t really work). Nice, though. There’s an Artist’s Corner on Sundays – some of the paintings are really pretty good.

Asola Wildlife Sanctuary

Eicher p162, G3. Right down at Delhi’s southern border with Haryana State, near Tughlaqabad Fort (worth a look in itself). Very hard to find at the moment, with only one signpost just outside the main gate to tell you where it is. Work is currently underway to create a proper trail with signage. A couple of interesting animals, like nilgai (Asia’s largest antelope, also known as blue bull) and black buck (a highly endangered species in the wild). But also a very nice way to leave behind the hustle and bustle of the city without having to travel for miles.

Hyatt Regency

(Ring Road/Vivekanand Marg (south of Chanakyapuri), Eicher p112, G4)

Buffet

Used to be a pretty good selection on the whole, with plenty of salads and some decent cheeses. But they seem to have started cutting costs/corners. The Hyatt got in early on Delhi’s growing bandwagon of Middle Eastern food here – though they don’t do it all the time. Usual range of local food, plus some nice “you choose it, we’ll cook it while you wait” stuff. Service can be very slow especially at busy times.

TK’s

The Sunday brunch with fizz is legendary – after all, where else can you get as much sparkling wine (Spanish, not champagne) as you can drink, a free run at the salad bar, and a teppanyaki grill all for Rs 900? Well, the salads are variable (probably a good thing – something for everyone). Some are very tasty indeed, some are bland but OK, some are a bit on the bizarre side. Likewise the teppanyaki – plenty of small dishes (which are cooked in front of you with varying degrees of showmanship), but the quality varies – and be warned, the steak on offer is buffalo. But good value all in all – and the salmon sashimi is very good if you want to add something just a bit special.

Hotel Imperial

(Janpath (south of Connaught Place), Eicher p80, F4)

Spice Route

As you might guess from the name, the Spice Route specialises in SE Asian and South Indian/Sri Lankan dishes, and does them very well. Can be a bit on the pricey side – you can quite easily spend Rs 2,500 on dinner for two plus beers if you want a wide choice of dishes – but on the plus side the food is so good you won’t want to stop eating it. Some of our favourites? The chameen thoren (Kerala spicy prawns), the Sri Lankan vegetable curry with coral mushrooms and water chestnuts, the tom kha gai (Thai chicken soup with coconut milk) are all regular orders. But we’re working our way through the menu… You might want to consider phoning ahead (2334-1234) to book, though – it’s often very busy, especially in the evenings.

1911 Bar and Restaurant

Nice atmosphere, especially at lunchtime when you can sit on the glazed verandah or on the open-air terrace. A fairly wide-ranging menu of North Indian and “Continental” food. The salads are large! But service can be a bit slow at times, and the food is OK but not that special.

Hotel Maurya Sheraton

(Sardar Patel Marg (Chanakyapuri), Eicher p95, A4)

West View

This one seems to have gone downhill a bit. When we first went we were quite intrigued by the concept – a choice of two out of three of soup, starter or salad, then a grill buffet with choice from a range of seafood, meats and vegetarian stuff, served with a few salad leaves and a baked potato. There’s also an Italian à la carte menu. But then we had several disappointments – portions of ravioli consisting of four pieces of stiff pasta with very little filling, seared scallops which had been baked to death and any remaining flavour drowned in soy sauce. And as for the view, there isn’t one at night.

Hotel Metropolis Nikko

(Bangla Sahib Road (west of Connaught Place), Eicher p79, D3)

Sakura Japanese Restaurant

Not a good experience, I’m afraid. We ordered two servings of salmon sashimi as appetisers while we contemplated the rest of the menu. When they finally arrived the fish was poor quality (large brown bits), inexpertly carved, and very measly in my case (Dave’s helping was considerably larger). We walked out…

Buffet

…and bumped into colleagues who expressed similar disappointment about the standard of the buffet they’d just had.

Hotel Grand Inter-Continental

(Maharaja Ranjeet Singh Marg (east of Connaught Place), Eicher p80, H3)

Blue Elephant Thai Restaurant

Another one where we didn’t stay to eat. We were put off by: (a) the musty smell pervading the whole place; (b) the waiter who pounced on us as soon as we stepped out of the lift; (c) the fact that no-one else seemed to be eating there; (d) the price – Rs 400-plus for papaya salad (it’s only Rs 225 for the Spice Route’s excellent som tam). A bit of a let-down when you consider that it’s part of a fairly reputable international chain of Thai restaurants. Even more of a shame as the view of Old Delhi from the 28th floor is pretty spectacular.

Bar/Restaurants

Kasbah

(2, N-Block Market (near Fab India and The Next Shop), Greater Kailash-1, Eicher p131, A1)

There are actually four outlets here: a coffee shop on the ground floor, an Indian restaurant on the third floor, and a bar on the second. But we went to the Italian restaurant on the first floor. Prices are reasonable and the food is pretty good – we shared a pizza, a pasta and a salad and had a couple of nice cold beers. Nice garlic-&-herb bread too. Friendly and helpful service, and they don’t spend too much time hovering over you.

Geoffrey’s

(Ansal Plaza, Khelgaon Marg (near South Extension), Eicher p114, G6)

Located on the ground floor of Ansal Plaza. Seems to have lost it a little bit – the last couple of times we were in there they were either unable to serve us local Foster’s (in spite of having it on the menu) or could only give it to us warm. We liked the Dynabites (cheese & jalapeño balls), though other places have offered something suspiciously similar. Not sure why they ask for your name when you go in either…
Update (9 March 2003): We went in again yesterday to give it another chance. Well, they didn’t ask for our names and the Foster’s was reasonably cold. But the table mats were dirty, the batter on the crispy fish was greasy and hid a lot of dark meat, the dynabites were cold, the potato wedges were undercooked. We sent back the Caesar salad because it contained all kinds of extraneous bits like olives, sundried tomatoes, soggy-looking paneer and sweetcorn. By the time they brought us back another one we’d already finished eating. (In fairness they didn’t charge us for it.) The experience wasn’t enhanced by the presence of someone who may have been the owner sitting directly opposite, beadily eyeing us whilst troughing through several plates.

Bäcchus (why the umlaut? Anyone know?)

(Munirka Marg, Basant Lok (Vasant Vihar), Eicher p127, C1)

Down a back alley next to Ferns ‘n’ Petals in Basant Lok (Priya Cinema). Fair range of beers (they do do local Foster’s, as well as Heineken and Guinness if your bank account can stretch that far) and some nice snack food too – we recently tried their falafel, which were spicy! Friendly staff who will leave you to pour your own beer without being told more than once.

Spirit

(Block E, Connaught Place, Eicher p2, E2)

A bit of a struggle to reach as it’s two floors up. But they do very nice Eastern Mediterranean food, in a pleasant atmosphere – music is not too loud during the day, nor are the televisions. Staff are pleasant and the kitchen is spotless.

Others

MerCurries

Leslie Weightman has written in to recommend “one of the best kabab places to eat in town”: MerCurries, located in New Friends Colony behind the Surya hotel (Eicher p116, H6). Dinner starts at 7:30pm. They have an all-you-can-eat meal of kababs, followed by biryani, dal and a special dish of the night – all for under Rs 300. Check it out!

Delhi Karnataka Sangha

As the name suggests, South Indian vegetarian food – this place was introduced to us by our Tamil driver. Just off Rao Tula Ram Marg, on the left immediately past the Ring Road (Eicher p111, E3) – behind a bank and next door to a petrol station. Shabby room with no windows, and the seating and tables are basic – but really good dosas and uttapams, and regular top-ups of sambar. A filling meal for four and soft drinks will set you back less than Rs 200. We’ve eaten there loads of times, always enjoyed it, and never had any problems. Open 1100-2300 seven days a week – but be warned, it can get pretty crowded at lunchtime and in the evening!
(Unfortunately the building was being rebuilt when we last tried to get a meal there – with no hint as to whether the restaurant would be resuming business.)

Basant Lok – or “Priya”, as some call it after the cinema – is an increasingly popular shopping area for Delhiites living in the south-western parts of the city, and is handily placed for the diplomatic enclave and the other expat ghettos in that area.

Go down the central walkway and take a first right. Adidas is on the corner, then Sugar and Spice bakery, which also sells Baskin & Robbins Ice Cream. Next you’ll find Modern Bazaar – one of Delhi’s best “supermarkets”. Just about everything is available here, albeit at a high price: smoked salmon, food colouring, dried and tinned goods, fish and meat. They’ve got the lot. Modern Bazaar also had the cheapest imported turkey I could find on the local market around Christmas time.

Go back to the central walkway and take the next right turn further down to Osaba Emporium on the left. This is THE place for household goods – pots and pans, bakeware, tableware, plastic items, and much more. Next door is a Barista coffee shop – where the only thing you should inhale is the fresh aroma of coffee – not recommended for smokers!

Back on the main walkway, on the right you’ll find a Priya cinema complex, and further down on the left, a Standard Chartered ATM, a computer hardware shop, and a Mövenpick ice cream shop. Straight ahead is TGI Friday (the same here as anywhere else – loud music and full of teenagers).

Continuing our clockwise tour, return back along the main walkway. Take a right down the spur (ie we’re now doing the other side of the main walkway, so it’s on the left from where we started). On your right is Ferns ‘N’ Petals, an excellent florist’s which makes good dried floral arrangements. You can tell them your colour preferences etc and they’ll make to order. Fresh flowers at street level, go down to the basement for the artifical arrangements.

Proceed along to the Oberoi Charcuterie, also on the right, which sells imported meat, fish and cheese. It’s pricy but great for a treat.

Across the way from here is a Chemist which sells health and fitness goods as well as perfumes, toiletries including tampons, small domestic appliances, hair dye, and if that’s not enough for you, there’s always sex appeal spray for men for only Rs 575.

Go right down to the end of this spur and you’ll come out at a circle of shops, but there’s not much here, apart from the Woodland shoe shop. There’s also a branch of the Nirula’srestaurant chain, which offers a free home delivery service as well.

Return to the main walkway and head back to where you started, you’ll find plenty of upmarket shops, including Benetton, and Planet Sports, selling clothing, sports goods and books. One particularly good bookshop is the Om Bookshop, which has a wide range of the latest books. They also have a branch at South Extension which deals more with technical/business books.

If you’re hungry, you can try Pizza Hut or back at square one, you’ll find McDonald’s directly opposite Adidas on the other front corner of the main walkway. I had a veggie burger with cheese from there which would have been better described as a green pea burger. Perhaps the McAloo Tikki burger would have been better. Hmmm.