You probably have to travel and decide for yourself, but here is my take. Bucharest itself is quite frankly an ugly city; a mix of Istanbul, wannabe Paris, and Soviet Realism. Winters can be grim and the summers will be hot. It is home to more than two million people and it is a crowded and busy city. If you want to work in Romania, this may be your only realistic choice as most major/international businesses operate here and the rest of the country is comparatively underdeveloped economically (with the exception of Timisoara, in the west of Romania). The people of Bucharest also have a reputation of being more “rough” than other Romanians, although I do not entirely agree with that assessment.

If you do not absolutely need to reside in Bucharest, you have a number of options and they will depend on your taste. In order to have any semblance of cosmopolitan life, you should limit yourself to the larger cities. University cities such as Iasi or Cluj will have a youthful vibe and an attractive cultural life. If you want the mountains and medieval buildings, choose Brasov or Sibiu. For the seaside, Constanta. Also be aware that each region of the country will be different depending on the influence it was subject to: Western Romania will be almost German, South-Eastern Romania will have a definite Turkish/Balkan flair, and North-Eastern Romania will have some Russian influence: you will see the differences in architecture, food, customs.

No city other than Bucharest is really big or crowded (by Western standards). You can live a stress-free life in any of the cities I mentioned.

Cost of housing

The costs of living will be quite low compared to the West, although certain items such as property have gone through the roof in the last few years. Romanians usually live in apartment buildings where they rent or buy individual flats. Not all of those will be suitable for someone used to Western comforts. Expect to pay between $60,000-$100,000 for a nice 3-4 bedroom flat in a good part of any large town. This is not really cheap, but 3-4 years ago the same flat could be purchased for a third of the price.

A house will be $80,000-$200,000 or more depending on size, location, etc. The houses are usually made out of stone (not wood). Foreign property ownership laws are changing so you may want to talk to a local lawyer if you are interested in buying.

The weather

The weather in Romania is quite typical for continental Europe, with four seasons. Usually spring and autumn are pleasant, while the winters can be unpleasant (in the cities especially). Winter holidays cause the country to practically shut down before Christmas, and things only get back to normal a week or so after the New Year.

A few last words…

In conclusion, what are some of the reasons to live in Romania? It is a somewhat “exotic” country, with a cultural mix that is unique; Romanian people are nice, fun-loving, and not completely “corrupted” by consumerism; it is affordable and likely to remain so, even as it continues to develop. It is an affordable (on a Western income), lively and relaxed place with few restrictions where clubs and bars close only in the early hours and are always packed, and where you can ski in the winter and go to the beach in the summer. Give it a try and see what you think, and you may rub elbows with other frequent visitors such as Prince Charles, Wesley Snipes, Armand Assante and Steven Seagal.

The infrastructure

It’s poor, crumbling, and being replaced only slowly. The streets will have potholes and as a driver you will share them with jaywalkers, stray dogs, chicken, perhaps even ox-driven carts. The roads in the cities are sinewy and winding, making driving a stressful experience. The intercity roads pass through villages, which will slow you down considerably.

Electricity can be unreliable and so can the landline phone service (although both have improved lately).

Diversity

Romania has its minorities (Hungarians, Gypsies) but by and large it is not a diverse society. If you are of Asian or African descent you may find yourself looked at. In a large city it is very unlikely to get worse than that; racially-motivated incidents are non-existent in Romania and people may stare simply because they are curious and have not been exposed to other ethnicities.

Social mores

Romanians are a recently urbanised (and even today about half of the population lives in the countryside). Some customs of behaviour common in long urbanised societies are not yet widespread in Romania. Don’t be surprised if people ask you how much money you make, or if you hear them commenting on other people’s appearance. Gossip is common. That being said, Romanians are highly social people and you will find yourself invited into people’s homes very soon after coming to the country (you will be expected to reciprocate). A lot of business is conducted in informal settings, and Romanians do place a high importance on personal relationships. They will often visit unannounced and expect to stay as long as the socialisation needs demand it. If it is your birthday, you are expected to buy everyone drinks. Weddings are lavish, day-long affairs.

Negativity

A pet peeve of mine is how many Romanians can be disparaging to their own country and culture. Do not be surprised to hear locals bash not only the government and politicians but also the people and its culture. In my opinion this is due to frustrations with Romania’s recent history, which has had many false starts. People simply imagine that elsewhere their own lives would be different and much better. This is mostly fantasising of course, and, a welcome change, the young generation of Romanians is quite patriotic and less subject to be negative in this fashion. It seems to me that the people most likely to be bitter and perpetually dissatisfied are those who came of age during the early years of Communism (these were indeed a time of change and promise for many, as people from the countryside could move to towns and get an education), only to see the Communist society turn dictatorial before crumbling and leaving a state of complete confusion in its wake.

Women

I should probably talk about this too – although I hope that if you move to Romania you are not doing it for the women; Romanians take pride in their land’s daughters. (Not unsurprisingly: in almost every country I visited, one of the first questions I was asked was what I thought of the girls. As a side note, Romanians, who can generally be described as tall, lanky, and dark-haired, are a welcome and exotic respite from the Slavic looks prevalent in most of Eastern Europe.)

However, should you find yourself involved with one of the country’s fair maidens, there are a couple of things you should be aware of. Romanian women are not “liberated” and independent like Western women. Romanian society still has a traditional role for the woman as someone who follows the man and is (in a relationship) somewhat subordinate to the man. She is still expected to cook, clean, look good, while the man goes about his manly things. A woman is not expected to be domineering or to have the last word; rather, the man is supposed to be assertive, and a lack thereof is a serious shortcoming in the (relatively) macho Romanian society. Romanian girls are not shrinking violets, and will get their way if they set their minds to it, but they are comparatively demure when compared to the average Western woman. In a couple, separate bank accounts, separate holidays and the like are unheard of. Divorce is still somewhat of a social stigma, although the ’90s have brought a large increase in the number of divorces (and also in the number of singles).

Conversely, if you are a lass and get involved with a Romanian guy, the above still applies: remember that the man is expected to lead and provide, and even if this is changing as more women become financially independent, being too assertive can make it difficult for you to relate to a local.

Foreigners

Until recently Romania has had comparatively few foreigners living or travelling in the country. While this is changing fast (with Romania’s economy growing and the country’s reputation as a party place spreading), as a foreigner you will still be a bit of a novelty, especially if you go to a smaller city. You will be seen as wealthy and worldly. If you work in Romania, it will be automatically assumed that you are a knowledgeable professional and able to provide leadership. This is nice, but make sure you do not fail to confirm these expectations. Romanian humour can be very biting and you do not want to find yourself at the receiving end of it. Also, don’t be self-deprecating; it will puzzle your interlocutors, who expect you to live up to their expectations of you.

Right now, in any large city in Romania you are likely to find Italians, Turks and Israelis in rather large numbers. Whether it’s the similar culture, the business opportunities, or whatever else, these guys seem to enjoy living in Romania. Bucharest is a cosmopolitan city and you are likely to find other nationalities there, but elsewhere in the country these three seem to be the predominant expatriate groups.

Corruption

Romania is often portrayed in the news as a corrupt and baksheesh-kickback motivated country. For sure, Romania is not Singapore. That does not mean that everyone will attempt to rob you blind and that you should trust no one, from public officials to law enforcement. Corruption in Romania has several sources: it is a legacy of the Turkish Empire, a consequence of the fact that Romania is still a rural, personal relationship-based society, and it is also due to the difficult times under Communism when basic goods could only be found through under-the-counter dealings. You will find honest Romanians all through the society; use judgment and do not assume that everyone is honest or that everyone is a crook. For example, a few years ago it used to be possible to “resolve” a minor traffic violation by slipping a $10 bill to the officer; nowadays there is a drive underway to reduce corruption in society, and this kind of action may be risky. As a rule, it is better not to have any dealings with the legal system at all!

Poverty

Unfortunately, as I have already mentioned [in Part 1], the ’90s brought a breakdown in the relative egalitarianism that characterised Romania during the Communist era. I say “unfortunately” because this has meant that a large percentage of the population (especially in the countryside and the industrial workers) has seen its living standards plummet. It can be argued that poverty was equally distributed before, since there was a general scarcity of goods; however, the fact is that during Communism healthcare, such as it was, was free, and the prices of basic goods were controlled by the state. Transition to capitalism dealt a severe blow to that part of the population whose salaries did not rise with the prices. While you will find very well paid Romanians, and indeed there is a wealthy class (most of whom made their money in a decade or less), the average Romanian still lives on a few hundred euros a month; with property prices skyrocketing in the last few years, decent housing is out of reach for many Romanians.

At the same time, you will notice that many Romanians like to put on a façade of luxury, as shown by the latest generation mobile phones (which are often more expensive than in the West), unnecessarily flashy cars (in a country with terrible roads), and the relative elegance that especially young women like to affect. Romanians place great importance on appearances, and many of them do not have a culture of saving/investing. At the same time, a rise in incomes and the explosion of consumer credit has made many trappings of “wealth” available to the 20- and 30-something crowd.

Even so, a trip to the countryside (sometimes reminding one more of the 19th century than of the 21st) or to the inner cities (with their dilapidated buildings and listless population) is a sobering reminder of the discrepancies prevalent in Romanian society, as are the beggars you will find in any large city. Poverty in Romania is not as intractable as in some places in Latin America or in Asia, but it is a blemish on the country’s face.

Treatment of children

Romania has unfortunately made a name for itself through its orphanages. While I am sure some very sad cases are true, I would take the recent news in the media with a large pinch of salt. There are political interests and pressure is exerted on the Romanian government to allow international adoptions of Romanian children, so there might be some biases in reporting. Romania is a developing country and is doing what it can afford to do to provide a better life for its orphans. It is unfortunate that neither the society nor the church has a strong tradition of charity. However, accusing the country of systematically mistreating its children is unfair and untrue.

On a related note, since Romanian society is relatively traditional, children tend to be strictly controlled by parents and are not as empowered as their counterparts in the West.

Gypsies

The Gypsy population is a difficult social problem that has not been solved satisfactorily yet. They are not exclusive to Romania, but they live in larger numbers in Romania compared to other countries in Europe. In Romania they used to be dependent serfs and were freed only late in the 19th century. They speak their own language and live in their own (often migrant) communities, with insignificant mingling with Romanian society. There is a not insignificant amount of prejudice against them from mainstream Romanian society (some of them engage in criminal activities, which unfortunately has led to the whole Gypsy community being branded as criminal).

Compared to other countries in Central and Eastern Europe, Romania is a relatively late blip on the average Westerner’s radar. For most of the early ’90s the country was only known for its problems (the bloody 1989 regime change, the ensuing chaos that subsided only late in the decade, the Romanian beggars that could be found in the major cities in the West). I and many Romanians of my age were dismayed at how the country seemed incapable of shaking off its past and moving on. The West was still a good place to be. And yet, in the early 2000s, things started to change for the better, while at the same time they seemed to go the opposite way in the West (it was supremely ironic to see riots in France and ridiculous election imbroglios in the US; these very things, riots and shaky elections, were used to categorise Romania as an unstable country in the 1990s). Romania is changing, but it is still a different country, potentially puzzling to a Westerner.

In order to understand Romania, you need to know a few things about its history and geography. It is situated north of the Balkans. Several empires bordered Romania (Turkish, Russian, and Austrian) and influenced its culture and politics; Greek, Jewish, German, and French influences also shaped Romania at different times in its history.

The Romanians are a Latin people; they are the only Orthodox Christian Latins, and the only Latins in Eastern Europe (for the purposes of this article I assimilate the ex-USSR state of Moldova to Romania, although they are different states). The Romanian language is recognisably Latin, although borrowings from Russian and Turkish make it a bit more unusual-sounding than Spanish or Italian. As Balkan-influenced Latins, Romanians are gossipy and hot-blooded; social relationships are important and tend to be long lasting, and the average Romanian is likely to be quite bound to the place of his or her birth.

Information about Romania’s early history is scarce, and it only gets better from the 13th century. Today’s Romania was split into several principalities, which were under the direct or indirect rule of one or other of their powerful neighbours until the late 19th century. Romania became an independent country in 1877, and only after World War I did the country start to resemble what it is today, after re-uniting the last provinces that were under foreign rule. In fact, British readers will be interested to find out that one of the most popular royals of Romania, who made a major contribution to the war effort during the First World War, and at the ensuing peace conference, was British-born Queen Marie, a popular figure both in Romania and abroad until the 1930s.

Until a generation ago, most Romanians (perhaps more than 80%) lived in the countryside. Because of its state of political dependency, Eastern Orthodox religion, and distance from the West, Romania did not have a Renaissance or Enlightenment Age. It was a feudal society until the middle of the 19th century. The Industrial Revolution finally came only in the last decades of the 19th and the first decades of the 20th century.

Furthermore, the gains of World War I were not to last; the Romanian psyche was severely wounded by territorial losses to Russia and Hungary at the onset of World War II, and by the Communist rule imposed by the Soviet Union following the war. Some of Romania’s best and brightest were lost during the Communist-ordered purges that followed the war, and the 40-plus years of Communist rule (the latter of which were under an increasingly paranoid President Ceausescu) did unfortunately keep the country in a backward state at a time of great change in the rest of the world.

Romania, thus, did not have a ’60s generation, women’s liberation, affirmative action, political correctness, or any of the developments that occurred in the West in the post war period. The fear of repression under Communism made people extremely reluctant to speak their minds. The society remained relatively egalitarian until 1989, with various shortages making everyone equally deprived. Like the other Eastern European countries, Romania is a uni-racial society (99+ % white). Especially during the latter years of Communist rule, foreigners were viewed with suspicion and contacts with the outside world were severely limited. As opposed to most other Eastern Bloc countries, Romania did not have a direct border with any non-Communist country and access to Western TV stations was non-existent.

Compared to the other Eastern European countries, though, Romania is diverse, because of the different influences its provinces have been under. A trip from the North West to the South East of the country will mean a transition from a Central European world and culture (think Germany and Austria) to a Middle Eastern one. Brasov is an unmistakably Germanic town while Bucharest has definite traces of Istanbul; on the shores of the Black Sea you can already find mosques, as well as Greek ruins.

After 1989 things started to change, although it took a decade for the politics to settle into a predictable pattern. The egalitarianism of the Communist era quickly vanished and today’s Romania is a polarised society with a narrow middle class, where an average salary is a few hundred euros a month and Jaguars can be found parked in front of decrepit Communist-era apartment buildings.

Current-day Romania has been in the news lately, especially since its application for EU membership is under review. Read on:
Part Two: Stereotypes