I dropped in on Sunday to meet up with an old pal, and found to my delight that the Pickled Liver was serving Morland’s Old Speckled Hen on draught. So I ordered a pint.

It was superb – the first proper draught pint I’ve had in eight years. (Sorry, Diageo – nice though Guinness is, you have to be in Ireland to fully appreciate it.) I’d started to forget what I was missing, but Hen and the Liver brought it all flooding back. It was quite an emotional moment. Good one, Nick!